Cauvery, Cardamom and Coffee Country

By Kalpana Rangan

 Misty hills, bamboo forests and coffee plantations were all around us as we entered Coorg. On either side of the road rose glowing gulmohars and towering eucalyptus. Driving inside we observed thick cardamom shrubs around narrow pathways. Streams flowing past rocky boulders completed the Coorg scenery. Yes, we had reached the country of Cardamom, coffee and the eternal Cauvery flowing through rivers and streams. 

     On the Eastern Slopes of the Western Ghats:

     Coorg is located on the eastern slopes of the Western Ghats, on the south-west of Karnataka bordering Kerala. A hilly district spread out on 4102 sq. km it has its highest peak, Tadiandamol, rising to a height of 5,740 ft and its lowest peak at 3000 ft above sea level. Cauvery, its main river, originates at Talakaveri also located on the eastern side of the Western ghats. 

     It was May, the peak of summer but the lush greenery all over and the mists over the hills made it cool and serene. Our resort atop a hill in Madikeri, in fact the highest point in Coorg, made the surroundings much more ethereal. From our room window and the balcony in front we could observe sunrise and sunset. What more could we desire for in a short holiday!

     We had chosen to visit Coorg because it was a popular hill station we had not been to; it was far away from the din of the city and it was approachable from Bangalore where my daughter lived. So, for a three day family holiday, this small hill station seemed ideal. We packed our bags, stretched our legs and got ready to enjoy our drive to Coorg or ‘Kodagu’ as it is referred to by the locals. 

     The roads were fairly good and the hair pin bends uphill were as exciting as ever. On the sloping hills we could spot cottages with Mangalore tiles and a few beautiful Coorgi women in their traditional sarees. As I looked up, I observed the sun’s rays splitting the mists over the hills. It was picture perfect. Was this the reason why this place was called the ‘Scotland of India?’ Perhaps, it was one of the reasons. 

    Scotland of India:

     According to history, the Scots who dominated the British planting community in Coorg were the ones who affectionately called it the ‘Scotland of India’ as it had similarities with the mother country in more ways than one. Both Scotland and Coorg especially Madikeri were misty mountainous regions with a cool climate. The people in both the countries had distinguishing pastimes like dancing, rough sport, hunting and fierce fight. Both were divided into clans and loved their arms. Last but not the least, they both stood out with their distinctive dress, the Scots with their knee length kilts and the Coorgs with their knee length ‘kupya.’

Raja’s Seat and Madikeri Fort:

     In the evening we walked down the hill, to visit Raja’s seat, an artistic garden with the Maharaja’s seat overlooking the mighty hills. Flower beds, shady trees, sand artwork and pathways leading to view points led us in. Late in the evening a musical fountain lighted up the whole garden and the Raja’s seat. Comfortably seated, munching flavoured sweet corn, we feasted our eyes on the hills and the valley below. 

     Further down, as we entered the market street, we could spot the entrance to the Madikeri fort. The fort built in the seventeenth century of brick and mortar that housed a palace, a temple, a prison and a chapel has now been turned into a government office with only one part of it housing a museum. It is worth climbing up the fort to get a beautiful view of the city.

     Nisargadhama in the middle of Cauvery:

     To witness breathtaking natural beauty, we drove down to Nisargadhama the next morning.  36 km from Madikeri, Nisargadhama is an idyllic island in the middle of Cauvery filled with bamboo shoots, eucalyptus, and an abundant variety of fascinating trees. Visitors can walk through the shaded pathways to the rope bridge connecting the island to the shore while admiring the flora and fauna around. Wooded tree tops and swings on the way may tempt you to stop and enjoy the view. A deer park and a boat ride can complete your picnic to this natural paradise. 

Dubare Elephant Camp:

Also located on the banks of river Cauvery is Dubare Elephant camp, a project of the Forest department, where elephants are captured and trained by naturalists. Located on the Kushal Nagar-Siddapur road, the best thing about this camp is that one can watch these animals up, close and personal and also interact with them. 

Sitting on the banks of Cauvery, you can observe these huge but charming animals getting an oil massage, a leisurely bath and being fed by the caretakers. Yes, you can also pose with these elephants and feed them slices of water melon. Before heading to our hotel  we visited the Golden temple in Bylakuppe. Spread out on an area of 6 km. Bylakuppe is a Tibetan settlement for Tibetan refugees with monasteries dotted in its campus.  

Through Coffee Planatations to Abby Falls:

Visiting Coorg and not passing through its coffee plantations is unthinkable. Kodagu is the second coffee producing region in India specializing in the production of ‘coffea robusta.’ The coffee-agro forestry here is one of the richest coffee forests in the world with 270 species of shaded trees and spices like cardamom, black pepper and vanilla cultivated in them. 

We combined our visit to Abby falls with a walk through these aromatic coffee plantations. It is exciting treading in between the dense foliage of the plantations and through a tricky path that goes up and down to finally reach the gushing falls. Relax on the stone seats or step on to the draw bridge to observe the falls trickling down with a thundering noise that can be heard from the road especially during the monsoon.

We didn’t forget to buy coffee, cardamom and other spices from the shop just outside. On our way back we stopped over at the heritage tombs or Gaddige as they are called to complete our tour of Coorg.  The three main tombs of the Kodavad royal family and court dignitaries stand out majestically contrasting with the greenery around and the hills beyond. We watched the sun set over the misty hills and casting its orange glow on the tiled homes. Our three day holiday was almost over before we realized it.

Fact File:

Location: Western Ghats of South West Karnataka.

District Headquarters:   Madikeri

Highest Elevation: 5740 ft.

Best Season to Visit: November to May.

Known For: Coffee Plantations

To Reach: By Road: 260 km from Bangalore to Madikeri.

(1120 words) (6 photos taken by me attached)

By Kalpana Rangan